process of pashmina making |
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By: Dolma Posted: 2009-03-04 07:28:41 |
| Wool Collection :First of all the wool from Chyangra (Capra Hircus) goat is collected. The pashmina wool is collected every spring. Then the soft fine pashmina is separated form the thick coarse hair. And both the soft pashmina and the thick coarse hair is taken for their further process.Spinning: The pashmina wool is collected every spring and is basically spun by hand. The yarn is spun on a spinning wheel locally known as 'Charkha'. Prior to spinning, the raw material is treated by stretching and cleaning it to remove any dirt and soaked for a few days in a mixture of rice and water to make it softer. Hand-spinning is an extremely painstaking task. It requires immense patience, dexterity and dedication and is amazing process to watch.Warping : Warping is the process of rolling silk yarn horizontal on a bean. There warping is usually done according to the width of the shawl you would like to make. In a shawl whose width is about 90 cm there are about 3800 silk yarn threads.Drafting : This is the process of inserting the silk yarn in the nylon netting to form different patterns on the shawls. There are certain ways in which this can be done as if you insert the silk yarn in the wrong way the yarn will not get locked which will ruin the shawl.Weaving : This is the process of locking the warp(the silk yarn) with the weft(pashmina yarn). This is done with the help of a hand loom where the silk yarn is places horizontally and the pashmina is the filling. It takes about three hours to weave a shawl but more time is required after this process to finish the shawlMending : This is the process of mending the shawls which is weaved. In this process the shawls are checked for damage. The places where the threads are missing the weavers with the help of needle and pashmina yarn fill the spaces where the threads are missing.Knotting : This process takes place after the shawl has been weaved. In this process the silk yarn that is left without it being weaved is tied into knots known as fringes. There are usually 90-100 fringes in a shawl whose width is about 90 cm. In each fringe there are about 30-35 silk yarns.Crushing : This is the process of crushing the shawls in order to give the shawls a softer feeling. The shawls are usually crushed for about 10-15 minutes each. This help to bring the soft feeling to the shawls.Washing : The shawls are washed after it is finished in order to wash away the odour and allow the shrinkage of the shawls to prevent it from damage later. It is also done to remove the stains, which it could have collected during the process of making the shawls.Dyeing : This is the process of giving the shawl the color the customers want the shawl to have. In this process the shawls are dyed in big vessels at 100 degree Celsius. The shawls have to be constantly stirred in order to give the shawls uniform color. The temperature has to be maintained at 100 degree Celsius as if the temperature increase the shawl could shrink.Crushing: This is the process of crushing the shawls in order to give the shawls a softer feeling. The shawls are usually crushed for about 10-15 minutes each. This help to bring the soft feeling to the shawls.Washing: The shawls are washed after it is finished in order to wash away the odour and allow the shrinkage of the shawls to prevent it from damage later. It is also done to remove the stains, which it could have collected during the process of making the shawls.Dyeing: This is the process of giving the shawl the color the customers want the shawl to have. In this process the shawls are dyed in big vessels at 100 degree Celsius. The shawls have to be constantly stirred in order to give the shawls uniform color. The temperature has to be maintained at 100 degree Celsius as if the temperature increase. |
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