Fixed die modular binding punches are designed for users who have outgrown a combo binding machine but don't need the ability to punch multiple hole patterns. These punches are designed for higher volumes of punching and for use with a stand alone finisher. Here are some simple directions for using a modular comb punch.

Prior to punching your document, determine the number of holes required for the document (depends on the side of the document that is to be bound - 11" edge requires 19 holes - 8 1/2" edge requires 15 holes).

1. Deselect the Die Pins you do not want to punch by lifting the Selector Pin Lid and pulling the pins up.

2. Set the Depth-of-Punch Lever (on the left side of the punch) to either under or over 9/16". This refers to the diameter of the comb element being used. Plastic binding is the only bind style that uses this measure, and its main purpose is to adjust the margin from the edge of the paper to the holes being punched so the element is properly filled. If the margin is punched too deep into the paper for a small element (i.e. 1/4"), the pages will not open or turn easily because there is not enough room inside the element. Conversely, if the margin is punched too shallow for a large document (i.e. 1/2"), the pages could tear out if the document was roughly handled or dropped.

3. Using a test lift of paper (or covers if using oversize covers), insert the sheets into the Punch Throat, moving them until they are flush against the Edge Guide and all the way into the bottom of the Punch Throat. Hold the sheets in place with one hand.

4. To punch, press the Punch Button or Foot Pedal.

5. Now, take one sheet of the punched material and fold it in half to check for hole alignment. If it is squared you're ready to continue punching the document.

6. When the punching is complete, remember to lift the front lid up, remove the chip tray, and trash the debris.

Note: As mentioned earlier, Comb Binding frequently uses oversize covers. This simply means the covers are manufactured 11-1/4" X 8-3/4" (instead of 11" x 8-1/2"), leaving an 1/8th inch margin at the top and bottom of the document and a 1/4" excess margin on the unbound 11" side of the document. This is to prevent dog-earing of the material contained within the covers of the document. It also makes the document look neater, as the pages do not stick out when the element moves in the punched holes. This does not happen with our other bind styles, as the holes are smaller, and there is less movement of the binding element.

What this means to you, is that the Edge Guide must be reset to "center" the holes of the oversize cover. Follow the same steps for setting the Edge Guide and checking the setting that you just completed. If you were punching a number of documents using oversize covers, you would set the Edge Guide for the paper, punching all the paper - then set the Edge Guide for the covers and punch all the covers.

Both Wire Binding and Coil Binding are set up using steps 1 through 5 - since the covers are flush cut with the paper (no oversize), there is no need to reset the Edge Guide.

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com He has written over 100 articles on binding machines

laminators, binding supplies, shredders, ring binders, index tabs, paper cutters and more. He is an expert in comb binding, coil binding, wire binding, thermal binding, Unibind, Velobind, Surebind, GBC Proclick, GBC Zipbind and all other binding styles and technologies.